6/24/12- Session 222- Rainbow Bay A-Frame bar on the McTavish LB. It was small knee+ bowls and much more fun than it looked. Super clean with an insane magenta sunset.
6/20/12- Session 221- Drove to Lennox Head to sell some books and surf the point on incoming tide. Nug came with and I rode the DHD BM for about 2 hours. The water was a bit dirty and there were chest- overhead fun but mushy walls. Inside double ups were fun.
6/19/12- Session 220- D’bah on DHD BM with Nug. We walked down and I wore the springsuit. The wind was N with a slight bump but there were fun waist-chest double ups and I got one micro barrel.
6/17/12- Session 219- Rainbow-Greenies on TS; tide was filling in and Snapper bar is gone. Side offshore breeze with waist+ A-frame peaks that were fairly fun and breaking way in the middle of the bay.
Session 218- Nug walked to D’bah with me and I surfed the DHD BM in springsuit. The water was clear and warm with waist-chest peaks that would break, back off and double up on the inside. There was tons of erosion from the past swell.
6/15/12- Session 217- One extended float on Mt. Woodgee from Greenies through Kirra. It was very lined up and I got one sick barrel at Kirra.
Session 216- Waves were a bit smaller than yesterday but still inconsistent well overhead sets. I did several drifts on the Mt. Woodgee and got some bombs. I felt more comfortable after last several days.
6/14/12- Session 215- Same as earlier sesh but seemed cleaner and more lined up; drifted through 3x and got some bombs.
Session 214- Drifted 3x on Mt. Woodgee from Greenmount/ Rainbow through Kirra in well overhead clean powerful walls. Some of the sets were heavy.
6/13/12- Session 213- Rainbow- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with well overhead lines and hard offshore breeze with big sets rolling through.
6/11/12- Session 212- Snapper- Kirra on Mt. Woodgee with semi- offshore overhead walls with tons of water moving around.
6/10/12- Session 211- Snapper- Kirra on Mt. Woodgee with Neal and fullsuit; Rob walked down with us. It was head- well overhead grinders and an insane crowd. It was frustrating and difficult to get the good ones due to all the people.
6/9/12- Session 210- Snapper- Greenies before dark with small waist+ peaks. Wind was sideshore and crowd was light. It was weak and rainy. I rode the DHD BM.
Session 209- D’bah with Neal on DHD BM in a fullsuit; the walk was cold and there were fun chest- overhead peaks with some fun wedgy right barrels. Neal saw me get several cover ups. The breeze was light offshore and it was rainy.
6/8/12- Session 208- Rode DHD BM at D’bah before beer bottling session. It was crowded but there were insane clear water overhead peaks with hard offshore wind. I got 3 barrels in a row with one being standup. Very fun sesh.
6/7/12- Session 207- Arvo Rainbow- Greenies float with Neal on Mt. Woodgee. It was crowded and not as good as earlier. Chest- head and offshore wind.
Session 206- Early float on Mt. Woodgee from Snapper- Kirra. Neal and I surfed for several hours with overhead sets at Snapper. A bit smaller than yesterday but the rights were super long.
6/6/12- Session 205- Afternoon sesh from Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with Neal, Nug, and Christine. The sweep was insane and swell grew substantially over time. Before dark the peaks were way overhead but inconsistent. Huge increase in swell from morning.
6/5/12- Session 204- Evening Duranbah float with Nug in the van. Rode the DHD BM in inconsistent, semi closed out, sideshore bumpy, cold water/ wind waist- chest peaks. Better than it looked.
6/4/12- Session 203- Snapper with Neal on Mt. Woodgee with blustery side shore wind and mushy chest high bumpy lines.
Session 202- Snapper- Rainbow on Mt. Woodgee with Neal; chest- head with cross offshore wind and light crowd. Fun inside barrels at Rainbow before wind came up. Had one sick end section smack at inside Rainbow.
Session 201- D’bah on Mt. Woodgee in head+ clear water peaks. It was a bit wonky but fun peaks could be found. There were lots of double ups. Surfed with Neal.
Session 200- Cylinders on DHD BM with Nug on the beach. It was NW syle wind and strong inside rip. The water was clear but felt sharky. It was chest- head with bumpy, lumpy peaks.
6/1/12- Session 199- Surfed Boiling Pot on DHD BM with a dropping tide and semi choppy lines. Mom and Dad were on the beach with Nug who snapped some shots. The water was brown and it was more powerful than Tea Tree Bay.
Session 198- Tea Tree Bay on DHD BM with Nug getting pics. It was overcast and semi-choppy lines. Chest+ but a bit weak and water was dirty from rain.
5/23/12- Session 197- Early D’bah float on DHD BM with Neal. Micro knee-thigh clean, weak peaks.
5/22/12- Session 196- DHD BM at D’bah with James in small, clean waist high bowls. Weak and inconsistent with Dad on the beach and Nug taking pics.
5/18/12- Session 195- DHD BM at D’bah with James and Tony with knee- waist peaks. Water was clear and wind was onshore. Last wave was my best with a good end section smack.
5/17/12- Session 194- DHD BM at Straddie with James, Tony, and Neal. Paddled across and it was knee high by jetty but chest+ down past the Spit. Saw a sea snake and lots of sharks. Become choppier as sesh went on.
5/16/12- Session 193- D’bah on DHD BM with James and Heff before Springbrook. Waist high with clean bowls off the rip. Got several tiny, fun barrels and James saw me get one that was almost drop knee. Wind was a bit cold.
5/15/12- Session 192- Arvo D’bah sesh on DHD BM with James, Tony, and Neal while girls and Heff were on the beach. It was choppy Jetty style waist- chest bumpy bowls.
Session 191- D’bah with James and Tony; Tony and I drove down about an hour after James and surfed chest- shoulder peaks that got better as tide dropped. Rode DHD BM in clean conditions with lots of clear water barrels. Most were head dips but got several dry.
5/14/12- Session 190- Lennox with James and Nug snapping pics. Rode DHD BM for 3+ hours with clean offshore fun lines at chest- overhead with wind switching SE as sesh went on. Tony was scared.
5/12/12- Session 189- Big Hill Crescent solo with German and clean, clear waist high peaks that were pretty fun with offshore wind.
5/11/12- Session 188- Big Hill Crescent with Neal, James, and Tony in clean, clear, light crowd waist- shoulder and fun peaks. It was a beautiful sunny morning for 3hrs or so.
5/10/12- Session 187- Emerald/ Moonee Beach with Neal after Kanga sunrise. The water was cool and clear and there were chest-shoulder peaks with offshore breeze and roos jumping on the headland.
5/9/12- Session 186- Backbeach Angourie on DHD BM with Neal and chest- shoulder peaks and fun wedges. It was slightly closed out with greenish, semi-clear water.
Session 185- Angourie with Neal on DHD BM with waist-chest inconsistent sideshore breeze. Short float.
5/8/12- Session 184- Yamba with Neal on DHD BM with fun chest- overhead wedgy peaks that were mostly closeouts but still fun teepee drops. The wind was light onshore and rippy with a huge dolphin pod in the lineup. The water was brown.
Session 183- Bombing Lennox Head on Mt. Woodgee with clean, uncrowded, super-fun, overhead walls and clear water with lots of bait. Great sesh and Nug snapped pics.
5/7/12- Session 182- Snapper- Kirra for 3+ hours on Mt. Woodgee. It was oil slick glass and chest high with inconsistent well overhead sets. It was a holiday and super crowded.
5/6/12- Session 181- Rainbow- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee and Nug walked me down. Caught only 5 waves or so and it was head+ with a slight onshore wobble.
Session 180- Hungover Snapper- Rainbow on Mt. Woodgee; did 2 drifts and it was well overhead and fairly clean but a frustrating float as it was breaking all over the place. My 2nd to last wave was a good barrel.
5/5/12- Session 179- Rainbow- Kirra with Neal on DHD BM in crowded, clean chest- head lines. It was a bit bigger than yesterday but less barrels. Got a sick barrel in front of Neal and a water photog at Greenies. Got another good one on a rip section at Cooly Beach and broke my leash at Kirra where I had to swim in.
5/4/12- Session 178- Rainbow- Greenies on DHD BM with Neal and fun bowls that turned into grinder barrels on the inside. Got several good cover ups including 4 on 4 straight waves. We surfed for several hours. I had one good barrel in front of a whitewater stall section.
5/3/12- Session 177- DHD BM and Flyline at D’bah with Neal, Nug, and C. Warm and beautiful beach day with waist-shoulder clear water peaks.
5/2/12- Session 176- Dropped Smelter and surfed D’bah with Neal from 8-1030. It was chest- shoulder and slightly closed out on Mt. Woodgee. We went to Natural Bridge after that.
5/1/12- Session 175- Mt. Woodgee at D’bah with Neal and chest- overhead bowls and green water with offshore breeze. Tons of barrels.
4/30/12- Session 174- Surfed the last hour before dark at Rainbow on DHD BM with Neal. Great sunset and light crowd. There were fun, long, clean lines and I got several really long waves to Greenies from LM’s. I had one wave with 6 or 7 turns.
Session 173- Snapper- Rainbow on Mt. Woodgee with Neal with clean inconsistent chest- shoulder lines. I skinned it and Nug and C went down.
4/29/12- Session 172- Rainbow- Greenies with Neal on Mt. Woodgee. Nug and C walked us down to clean head+ lines with more power as S swell filled in. I had several good laybacks and turns and got barreled sick on my last wave in near darkness. A goon’s board hit my neck.
Session 171- Snapper- Kirra with Neal on Mt. Woodgee. Fun head+ lines. Caught one grower double up from LM’s to Greenies and had several good ones from Rainbow down. Had one with 4 roundhouse/ carves that walled up on the inside and I got 3 great smacks before eating it.
4/28/12- Session 170- Snapper- Greenies on DHD BM with Neal in chest- head high double up wedgers. Side offshore wind and kind of section which made it easier to get waves. Got a good barrel at Rainbow and some fins free smacks at Greenies.
4/27/12- Session 169- Biscuit from Snapper- Greenies and points got good as tide dropped. Chest- head lines with clean faces. Sick sesh with 2 barrels at Greenies and a SICK one where I faded an Lber after weird board dude said “Go mate!”
Session 168- D’bah with Neal on DHD BM with sick overhead bowls. 1st peak was wedging sick and I got one nice backside barrel.
Session 167- Snapper- Rainbow on DHD BM with Neal. Soft and inconsistent waist- chest with cold air but not bad water. Wore the springsuit.
4/26/12- Session 166- Snapper- Greenies on DHD BM with chest- shoulder lines that were soft.
Session 165- D’bah on DHD BM in overhead fun peaks and light crowd and SE wind.
4/24/12- Session 164- Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with Neal in chest- head lines with some power. We surfed until dark.
4/17/12- Session 163- DHD BM at Snapper in waist+ wedgy, backwashy peaks. Parko was out and I smashed my chin on one I tried to back out of.
Session 162- D’bah on DHD BM with Nug walking me down. Peaky, clean up short period wind swell. Waist- chest and closing out.
4/16/12- Session 161- DHD BM at D’bah in waist- shoulder closed out walls with light onshore wind. Fun corners on a few.
Session 160- Snapper on DHD BM in waist- chest Sebastian style bowls. 2 turns per wave.
4/15/12- Session 159- Rainbow Bay on McTavish in shallow, clean, clear water knee- waist grinders at low tide. Somewhat crowded and almost killed a little kid who duckdove under me.
4/11/12- Session 158- Little Cove on McTavish LB and Tyler; waist high screamers, long lines and a bit crowded but fun nose rides lines. Short one hour session.
Session 157- 7am Tea Tree sesh with Ted and Nug snapping pics; waist- shoulder LB point waves. Clean and crisp side offshore breeze; had fun noserides and it was supposedly uncrowded.
4/10/12- Session 156- Noosa “Little Cove” on rented 9’3 McTavish board rented from Quik shop for $55 for 24 hours. Knee- waist screamer nugs, uncrowded and hard offshore breeze.
4/8/12- Session 155- Early, early LB float with Nug as we tried to get a shot with the moon in the background. Clean waist- shoulder super fun long lines and great sunrise.
4/7/12- Session 154- LB at Greenies with Ted; we traded off board and pics and some clean waist- chest lines. Beach was crowded but surf was not.
4/6/12- Session 153- Rainbow- Greenies on TS with clean, fun higher tide long rights. Got two long fun waves towards dark. A goofyfooter fell on one and I did 10-12 sick turns. Beautiful full moon.
Session 152- Rainbow- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with Ted; crowded Good Friday but clean chest- head+ long lines. Nug snapped some pics; caught 2 waves at Kirra but they were close outs.
4/5/12- Session 151- LM’s to Greenmount with Ted on Mt. Woodgee in pumping well overhead powerful lines and clean sections. Got a sicky in front of Ted and a double up barrel on a drop at Greenmount.
Session 150- Broken Head with Ted on DHD BM in sucky, sideshore chest- well overhead double ups on the bar. The sweep was strong to north.
4/4/12- Session 149- The Pass on DHD BM with Ted and chest- overhead clean lines, mainly breaking out back and not too good on the inside.
Session 148- Broken Head on DHD BM with Ted in chest- shoulder shallow breaking walls. Had some fun carves and a smack where I hit my knee.
4/3/12- Session 147- LM- Greenies on DHD BM with Ted before dark. Fat and crowded chest- shoulder.
Session 146- Rainbow- Kirra on DHD BM with Ted and fun chest- head+ clean lines. Backdoored a Greenies peak into a sick barrel and then another on same wave.
4/2/12- Session 145- Rainbow- Greenies with Ted on TS. Clean waist- shoulder lines on dead high tide. Looked flat between sets. Surfed 45 minutes before dark.
Session 144- Burleigh Heads with Ted and Nug on Mt. Woodgee in head+ not as good as it looked inconsistent lines. The rip was terrible.
4/1/12- Session 143- Rainbow Bay early sesh with Ted and Nug snapping pics. Rode the TS in waist- chest clear water walls.
3/31/12- Session 142- 45 min float at Rainbow on TS with waist- chest long clean lines, great water and nice sunset. Nug walked down. We hung at Fingal earlier in the day.
Session 141- Burleigh with Ted on Mt. Woodgee in head- overhead and pumping barrels with long lines. There were great sections and I came out of 12-15 sick tubes and only did 3 or 4 turns all sesh.
3/30/12- Session 140- Rainbow- Greenies with Ted on Mt. Woodgee in chest- head clean good lines. Super crowded with easy take offs leading to good sections. Got one sick double up stall to gaper through Greenies that was a standup barrel to closeout. Got a frothy inside one as well.
Session 139- Currumbin with Ted on Mt. Woodge. Clean early and way overhead. Good on the point and fat further in. Hell Drift!!!
3/29/12- Session 138- Greenies- Kirra on Mt. Woodgee with Ted; strong sweep and rain at 1st. Nug snapped pics. Bigger than earlier and some heavy bowls at Kirra.
Session 137- LM’s to Kirra on Mt. Woodgee with Ted; shoulder- overhead lines and clean. Got a fun barrel at Rainbow followed by several turns. Also got a standup barrel in front of Kirra groin.
3/28/12- Session 136- Rainbow- Greenies on DHD BM; evening sesh with Ted and Nug snapped pics
Session 135- Greenies on DHD BM with Ted; Clear water and waist- chest mushballs
Session 134- Burleigh on DHD BM with Ted early; clean but lumpy overhead bowls
3/24/12- Session 133- Snapper- Greenies with waist- chest weak lines and heavy, kooky crowd. Caught 5 or 6 waves on paddle home.
Session 132- D’bah on Mt. Woodgee; went early but it was crowded and mushy chest- shoulder.
3/23/12- Session 131- Greenies- Kirra on Mt. Woodgee; steady offshore breeze and Nug snapped pics. Chest- overhead lines and I caught tons of waves at first.
Session 130- Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee over 2 drifts. Breeze was offshore and fun overhead walls. Caught a good double up at inside Snapper and got 2 barrels as I rode it to Greenmount
3/22/12- Session 129- Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with choppy head+ drifty walls. It was crowded but my 1st wave at Snapper was a double up warping barrel.
3/21/12- Session 128- Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with absolute pumping barrels; chest- overhead and breaking in shallow water; Rainbow barrels were insane; watched a goofy footer blow a barrel and pulled in behind the double up and parked in it forever
Session 127- Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee; somewhat fat clean chest- overhead walls; Greenies crowd was light and I got a good barrel down there.
3/20/12- Session 126- Snapper- Greenies on Mt. Woodgee with strong E wind and strong sweep. Overhead at Snapper and chest- shoulder down the point. Had a sick layback at Greenmount.
3/19/12- Session 125- Greenies- Kirra on Mt. Woodgee with chest- overhead walls and clear water. Nug snapped some pics.
Session 124- Snapper- Kirra on Mt. Woodgee; breaking in shallow water with hard offshores’ got a super long barrel on a warping inside double up at Snapper. Made it through several sections. Had another on on 2nd section almost took out a Jap kid. Got a barrel at Greenies where I caught a wave south of the rip, did a turn and parked in the barrel for a good 30 yards.
3/18/12- Session 123- Mt. Woodgee from Snapper- Greenies in smaller, mushier lines.
Session 122- Mt. Woodgee from Snapper- Greenies but mostly Snapper. Caught a double up wide swinger and did several turns between 2 barrels. Overhead at Snapper and chest at Greenies.
Session 121- Mt. Woodgee at D’bah in overhead, side offshore closed out lines; barreling but mostly closeouts. Got one sick double up late drop tube. Bottomed turned a bit high into it but the speed helped me make the section.
3/17/12- Session 120- Rainbow on DHD BM with sick chest+ high tide double ups. Got a sick barrel and did 5 or 6 turns after.
Session 119- Snapper- Greenies on DHD BM in waist- chest double ups. Waves were lining up perfectly and I got several sick tubes.
Session 118- DHD BM at D’bah in jumbled chest- shoulder peaks on outgoing tide. Light offshores and got one barrel where a kid almost faded me.
3/16/12- Session 117- Snapper- Greenies on DHD BM over 2 drifts. Fun lines and chest- overhead with light onshores. Great session.
3/15/12- Session 116- Snapper- Greenies on DHD BM in chest- head choppy lines; Kelly Slater paddled out at Snapper and it was not as good as earlier.
Session 115- Snapper- Greenies on DHD BM in really fun chest- head lines with light onshores; had some good smacks and roundhouse to tailslide rebounds. Had a sick end section tail drift on one inside double up.
Session 114- D’bah on DHD BM in fun overhead bowls with gnarly inside section and light offshore breeze but still bumpy from past onshores.
3/14/12- session 113- Snapper-Greenmount on DHD BM with light onshore waist-stomach weak lines, Snapper and Greenmount were the best sections
Session 112- Floated at D-bah on the DHD BM with George, his bro, and Keegan in chunky overhead, rippy, onshore peaks with lots of double ups and some heavy drops. I walked from the house.
3/13/12- Session 111- Surfed Rainbow Bay with Nug on the McTavish in thigh-waist high onshore peaks with beautiful water. Nug ruled a sick waist high bomb.
3/12-12- Session 110- Afternoon McTavish float at Rainbow which was not as good as yesterday. It was thigh-waist lines that were kind of closing out in very shallow clear water.
3/11/12- Session 109- Afternoon float at Rainbow on the McTavish with fun waist high lines grinding on the inside bar. The wind was light side-offshore. I got one super long bomb at Greenmount as I was paddling home.
Session 108- Early morning at D-bah on the Mt. Woodgee with a moderate S wind early. It was fairly crowded and chest-head high peaks were less consistent than yesterday. It was closing out more too. I did get barreled in front of Occy on a right.
3/10/12- Session 107- Rode the Mt. Woodgee from Snapper- Greenies. The Snapper crowd was thick and the waves were by far best there. I rode the H2 Carbon fins and busted the back fin on my first wave. The fin still rode okay and there were chest high very long lines on the inside. I got one look back barrel at Greenmount on the far inside after riding for 100 yards or so.
Session 106- By far the best D-bah I have seen yet on the Mt. Woodgee. It was perfect overhead a-frames with good barrels in clear water. The barrels were backlit with the rising sun. The crowd was light and tons of peaks were on offer. The wind was light offshore and I got several sick tubes. Also did a sick fin-waft on a right that a sponger almost burned me on.
3/9/12- Session 105- Surfed Lennox on a mid-outgoing tide on the DHD BM. The wind went light south but it was grooming the overhead lines. It was much more crowded and more difficult to get waves. There was more power on the lower tide.
Session 104- Woke up after camping at Shelly Beach and checked all of Ballina before surfing Lennox with 7 guys out. It was overhead with light offshore wind and powerful lines following sick drops on the peaks. I surfed the DHD BM.
3/8/12- Session 103- DHD BM at Boulder Beach in inconsistent waist high peaks. It was a short, sad session.
Session 102- DHD BM at D-bah around 530 am with light offshore breeze and perfect waist-shoulder peaks. The tide was high and the morning was amazing with perfect water and fun peaks that were better than they looked.
3/7/12- Session 101- DHD BM at Duranbah in crystal clear waist-chest peaks on an outgoing to low tide. The wind was hard offshore and it was kind of crowded. Nug and I had walked from the house and she took off to Lincraft partway there. Skated to Rainbow in the afternoon but did not go out.
3/6/12- Session 100- Drove to Burleigh with Nug in rainy, overcast conditions and sideshore winds. It was mid-tide and waist- stomach weaklings. The water was riddled with jellies and I surfed from the point to shorebreak.
Session 99- Snapper- Greenies on the TS in waist- chest long mechanical lines and hard offshore wind. It was breaking in knee- waist deep water. Crowd at Snapper was ridicks with Mick Fanning, Jordy Smith, and John John out. Water was sucking up the faces and the lines were fast.
Session 98- DHD BM at D-bah in shoulder- overhead very peaky a-frames and a hard offshore wind. The water was clear and the crowd was light. The tide was high so it was inconsistent but fun when they rolled through. I did a sick backside reverse on a head high section.
3/5/12- Session 97- DHD BM from Snapper- Greenies in light rain and clear water. It was chest- head high with fun lines. The wind was light with decent walls.
Session 96- Snapper- Greenmount on the Thumbprint Single fin in chunky head+ chunky lines and a 10-15mph ESE wind. There were fun walls and a light crowd.
3/4/12- Session 95- DHD BM at Snapper- Greenmount for 45 minutes before dark in clear water. The Snapper Bank has filled in substantially. The wind was light onshore with waist- chest and well lined up walls.
Session 94- DHD BM at D-bah in chunky overhead bowls. It was very peaky and crowded with a steady onshore breeze.
3/3/12- Session 93- McTavish at Rainbow with Nug. She surfed for longer than I did. It was knee-thigh with light winds and clear, crisp water.
3/2/12- Session 92- D-bah on a DHD BM; walked from the house with Nug. It was still small knee-thigh with a light chop. It was kind of closed out and weak crap.
Session 91- D-bah on the TS in tiny knee+ waves with clean water and a light onshore breeze.
2/28/12- Session 90- Rode the Mt. Woodgee at D-bah in shitty chest-shoulder low tide closeouts. The wind was hard onshore and the waves were essentially unmakable. The water had tons of “blue bottles”.
2/27/12- Session 89- Rode the Mt. Woodgee at D-bah with George in overhead, peaky bowls. There were some wedgy nugs and a 10-15 mph onshore breeze with a light crowd. There were some great smackable sections. I got sucked over on one duck dive and held on the bottom in 8ft or so of water.
Session 88- 515am float at Rainbow-Greenies on DHD BM with chest-shoulder high somewhat mushy, choppy lines. There were some fun double ups that offered great roundhouse sections.
2/26/12- Session 87- Early arvo at Rainbow- Greenmount with Greenies being the best sections. The waves were chest- shoulder with peaky lines and pea-green water. I rode the DHD BM and had several good combos.
Session 86- Early 5am sesh from Rainbow- Greenmount and I did 2 float throughs. There were fun chest-shoulder high lines with Greenies again being very good and peaky. I had one great wave with several turns and slides right in the pocket. There was a steady onshore breeze and I wore the top.
2/25/12- Session 85- DHD BM from Rainbow-Greenies in chest-shoulder lines. I did the best carve/ tailslide combo turn I’ve ever done. It was a great session.
Session 84- DHD BM from Rainbow- Greenmount before the contest started. I was out around 530am. There were tons of pros and inside Greenmount was the best value again. The wind was light onshore and there were chest-head high lines.
2/24/12- Session 83- DHD BM from Rainbow-Greenies in waist-chest side offshore fun lines. The wind was hard and it was much cleaner than Duranbah.
Session 82- DHD BM at D-bah for 45 minutes in super, windy, choppy, chunky, overhead waves. The crowd was light and there were some fun peaks.
Session 81- DHD BM at Rainbow-Greenmount in waist-stomach waves with light onshore breeze.
2/23/12- Session 80- DHD BM again at Duranbah on a mid-outgoing tide. The waves were super fun shoulder high peaks with a light wind. It was easy to get waves and was not as crowded as it looked from the beach. Most of the ASP Tour was out. Saw Mick Fanning, Julian Wilson, Taylor Knox and several others.
Session 79- DHD BM at D-bah around 515am in fun waist- shoulder high peaks. The water was cold and it was overcast and rainy. The entire women’s tour seemed to be out killing it.
2/22/12-Session 78- Took Nug out to Rainbow Bay on the McTavish in knee- waist high long clean lines. Nug got some good ones and so did I.
Session 77- Rode the Thumbprint Single Fin at D-bah in fun chest high bowls and clear water with a light wind. I surfed the middle and far north peak.
2/21/12- Session 76- DHD BM in tiny knee- thigh weak and windy Duranbah. The wind was light sideshore and it was basically shit. A jellyfish wrapped around my neck and left gnarly welts.
2/19/12- Session 75- Greenmount on the McTavish. Nug caught 3 waves (real good long ones) and I swam in the lineup. I caught a few afterwards. It was waist-chest with side- offshore winds and clear water.
Session 74- Straddie with George and Keegan on the DHD BM. I took the boat for $6 return. It reminded me of a clear water Talbot with overhead peaks and light wind that picked up as the morning progressed. It was fairly crowded but that eased as the wind picked up. Super fun session.
2/18/12- Session 73- Rode the McTavish LB from Rainbow- Greenies in clean waist-chest high lines; it was crowded but easier to get waves on the longboard. The water was clear and I got lots of fun noserides…even with a leash. It saved several swimmers on the inside who would have been smashed if I hadn’t. Greenmount got fun and lined up as the tide dropped.
2/17/12- Session 72- Took the DHD BM to D-bah with George and Steve in fun shoulder- overhead bowls and a light crowd. It did get more crowded as it got dark. The wind was strong SE but the faces were clean.
Session 71- Rode the Thumbprint Single Fin at Rainbow- Greenmount in clean, weak and inconsistent waist- stomach high lines. Heaps of longboarders made it hard to get waves.
2/16/12- Session 70- Rode the McTavish at Greenies with Nug on the beach; the wind was strong offshore and it was basically knee high shorebreak running parallel to the beach. The water was clear and the mid tide was causing it to mush out the back and break in 6 inches of water on the inside.
Session 69- D-bah on the DHD BM in chest- head high a-frames with a strong SE wind and a fairly heavy crowd. There were fun sections and Adriano de Souza was out.
Session 68- D-bah with George on the DHD BM in chest- shoulder high SE windswell; SE wind was strong and it felt like back home on a bombing day; the crowd lightened up towards dark.
2/15/12- Session 67- Surfed Greenmount on the McTavish after walking Nug to work. It was a full tide and inconsistent knee- thigh clean lines were filtering in. The tide was not high enough for the inside bar yet.
2/14/12- Session 66- Surfed Greenies- Rainbow- Greenmount on the McTavish; it was super clean micro knee- thigh lines. There were 2 or 3 people out at Greenies which was more of a shorebreak. Both sections were fun.
2/13/12- Session 65- Went to Duranbah on a low incoming tide on the DHD BM in super fun chest-head high peaks in clear water and a light offshore breeze that turned light onshore. The crowd was light.
Session 64- Surfed Currumbin Alley on the DHD BM in somewhat fun waist- chest clean lines. It was inconsistent but water was clear and the morn was beautiful.
2/12/12-Session 63- Surfed D-bah in a light rain and grey conditions. It was essentially empty with chest- head high clean double up peaks with some closeouts. There were little barrels up and down the beach. I rode the DHD BM.
Session 62- Rode the DHD BM at D-bah in chest- shoulder high peaks with a slight cross chop and NW wind. It looked like poo from the beach but there were some fun uncrowded peaks.
2/11/12- Session 61- Greenies on the McTavish; there was a little nipper contest and waist-stomach high grinders in very shallow water; tons of people were out and also swimming in the water. I had no leash so it was sketchy…for the swimmers. Light onshore.
2/10/12- Session 60- Short 30 minute float from Rainbow- Greenies on the TS; the breeze was light onshore and there were weak knee-waist high mushy lines. I got one wave with 5 turns but the rest were meh. We had just returned from Springbrook.
2/9/12- Session 59- High tide sesh on the McTavish at Greenmount bar; water was clear and there were thigh-waist high runners; LB seller’s dad was out; went leashless and Nug came down for a few more shots; wind was hard offshore and it was real fun.
Session 58- DHD BM at D-bah with peaky semi-full tide head high bowls; light offshore wind and maybe 15 guys out. There was a bulldozer moving all the logs off of the beach.
2/8/12- Session 57- McTavish at Greenmount; Nug walked down to snap pics; we went 45 minutes before dark and there were some light showers coming down. It was waist- stomach and very clean.
Session 56- McTavish at Greenies on a full tide with clear water and long waist- stomach clean lines. The crowd was light and it was super fun.
2/7/12- Session 55- Took the McTavish out at Rainbow for 45 minutes before dark. It was a full tide and their were fun waist high clean lines. There was a full moon peaking out past the point at Snapper which was amazing.
Session 54- McTavish LB at Greenies in fun waist-chest long lined double up. The crowd was light and the water was translucent.
2/6/12- Session 53- Surfed D-bah on the DHD BM in head high + A-frames and a light onshore wind. The water was littered with sticks and logs and the crowd lightened up as the morn progressed. There were very fun peaks as the tide became higher.
Session 52- Float at Rainbow on the DHD BM. It was crowded, weak and inconsistent waist high with a light onshore wind. I made the walk to D-bah.
2/5/12- Session 51- Arvo float at Rainbow on the Mt. Woodgee. It was chest-head and more inconsistent than earlier. The breeze was light onshore and it was super crowded. Still had some power behind it.
Session 50- Early morn 515am float at Rainbow- Greenies. The Greenmount section was bombing with long lines and powerful walls. It was overhead and ruler edge clean. G &S were out.
2/4/12- Session 49- Rode the Mt. Woodgee at Rainbow- Greenies in overhead, powerful long lines with a light offshore breeze. The water was dark brown and the tide was mid-high. It was fairly crowded but the waves were pumping. It was by far the best session of the day.
Session 48- Surfed The Pass with G & S on the DHD BM in chest- overhead waves. The wind was hard offshore and the water was crystal but it was closing out really bad. The sandbar appeared to be shit and it was no too good.
Session 47- Mt. Woodgee at Lennox with G & S in powerful overhead lines but a fair amount of closeouts. The lines were very sectiony and hard to make. It was crowded and a Jim Beam contest was going on. Some of the inside lines were breaking close to the rocks and were heavy. I got caught inside by a few bombs and ditched my board to swim to the bottom. Owen Wright was out.
2/3/12- Session 46- Surfed the DHD BM at Broken Head in fun chest-shoulder high lines and a fairly light crowd. The water was clear and it was a good session with G &S.
Session 45- DHD BM from Rainbow- Greenies with the inside section the best; it was fat but got better with the dropping tide. There were chest-shoulder high clean water long lines. Surfed with George and Steve.
2/2/12- Session 44- Rode the DHD BM as a thruster at Rainbow through to Greenies; waves were fun shoulder high lines and it was cleaner than the morn.
Session 43- Rode the TS at Snapper-Greenmount in waist-chest fun lines that got better as the tide dropped. The wind was light onshore and the water was emerald green.
2/1/12- Session 42- D-bah on the DHD BM with George. The waves were chest- shoulder high with some hard angle bowls and chunky barrels. It was chest- shoulder but some of the peaks were overhead. The wind went light for an hour or more after a rainstorm passed making it very fun.
Session 41- DHD BM at Snapper-Rainbow with chest high fun lines. The crowd was light and the water is much cleaner. I surfed from 10-12 and the wind was light the whole time. Saw Donovan Frankenreiter trying to surf.
1/31/12- Session 40- Floated at Snapper-Greenmount in waist-chest dirty water mushballs with an ENE wind. It was choppier than the morning but had more push. I rode the Thumbprint Single Fin.
Session 39- Early bird sesh at Snapper- Greenmount on the DHD BM. It was a short 1 hour session before work (sounds weird). The wind was light NE and it was waist-chest with very few people out. The water is still shit.
1/29/12- Session 38- Morning session at Snapper with George and Steve. I rode the DHD BM as a quad in weak waist-chest poo poo water. It was lining up better than yesterday.
1/28/12- Session 37- I rode the DHD BM as a quad in small, choppy, rainy, dirty water conditions. It was waist+ and weak at Rainbow. It was one of the shittest sessions of the trip.
1/26/12- Session 36- Rode the Mt. Woodgee at Snapper- Greenmount in overhead long lines. There were real fun powerful walls with a light crowd. I did 3 drifts in gross water.
1/25/12- Session 35- Surfed Snapper- Kirra with George. I did two float throughs. It was head+ with a gnarly shorebreak at Greenmount; It was powerful with long lines and bumpy faces due to the past NE wind. I was able to connect several for 4-5 turns. The drift was ripping through and the water was disgusting Central America style from the runoff. There were huge logs in the lineup.
1/24/12- Session 34- Snapper-Greenmount on the Mt. Woodgee in head high chunky peaks with pouring rain and onshore wind. The inside lines were fun at Greenmount with big open faces and long walls. I did one of the best roundhouses of my life to a rebound off the whitewater on my last wave.
1/23/12- Session 33- Rainbow Bay on the Thumbprint Single in fun waist-chest lines. It was a bit soft but great for the single. The water smelled very fishy and there was lots of exposed rock on the low tide. The wind was calm.
1/22/12- Session 32- D-bah arvo sesh with George and Steve on the DHD BM as a quad. The waves were waist- chest with a sideshore SE wind. It was kind of crowded and a bit weak. Over the 2 hour float it switched between bright sunshine and pissing rain 6 or 7 times.
1/21/12- Session 31- D-bah with G and Steve on the DHD BM on a somewhat full tide with fun chest- head double ups. The crowd lightened up towards dark. There was a fairly brisk SE wind with the lefts peeling down the beach.
1/20/12- Session 30- Boulder Beach with George on the DHD BM. It was a sick 3 hour session with only several other people out the whole time. The strong SE wind was not affecting the waves as the cliff blocked it. There were long, fun double up lines and 2-5 maneuvers were possible per wave. It was chest-shoulder and super rippable. I had some sick roundhouses and sprayed a couple kids in the face.
1/19/12- Session 29- Arvo float at Duranbah with George and Brian; Nug came down for the float. I rode the DHD BM but it was smaller and weaker than earlier. It was mushy with a 15-20 mph SE wind but there were okay peaks.
Session 28- Duranbah early morning 5am float on the DHD BM. The tide was full early with light offshore wind all morning. The crowd was mellow and the overhead perfect A-frames started barreling sick as the tide backed out. The water temp was delicious and I had several really fun tubes.
1/18/12- Session 27- Rainbow-Greenmount on the Thumbprint Single Fin with George. The waves were very clean and chest- head high with super long lines. I had several waves with 8-12 turns and my legs gave out towards the end of a few. I lucked into some really good ones during the session.
Session 26- Surfed Snapper-Kirra on the Mt. Woodgee with Merrick Carbon fins; Paddled out with George and it was mushy at first but got better as the tide backed out. The wind was about 10mph side-offshore and there were overhead lines. It was really fun with sick barrel sections. I got one barrel through Greenmount that I was pumping as fast as I could before coming out. Surfed for 4.5 hours.
1/17/12- Session 25- Evening sesh from Snapper-Greenmount on the Mt. Woodgee with G5 Infinity fins; It was slightly overhead with lots of whitewater double up roll throughs. The wind dropped but the crowd picked up. The new fin/board combo felt strange at first. Some waves were mushy but selective lines were long with walled sections.
Session 24- Snapper-Kirra on the DHD BM with George and his buddy. I floated through twice as the sweep was ripping. On my second float I got a sick barrel through Greenmount. There was lots of duck diving and wash through waves but the lines were super long and several feet overhead.
1/16/12- Session 23- Evening float at Snapper Rocks to Greemount on the DHD BM; It was much better than the morning with head high + well lined up walls. It was a bit more crowded with onshore winds. Had several really good roundhouses.
Session 22- Surfed with George at Snapper Rocks on the DHD BM. It was choppy chest-shoulder high chunks with about 10 guys out. It was much more fun than it looked from the beach. I got several long rides with good full roundhouse sections. I think I did the best turn of my life with a tail free smack.
1/15/12- Session 21- Surfed the DHD BM at Currumbin Alley with George. It was semi-choppy with sideshore winds and waist-chest peaks. Lefts were better and the crowd was light.
Session 20- TS at Snapper Rocks. It was waist-chest with sideshore winds. It was kind of mushy and surfed with George.
Session 19- Early D’bah sesh with George. It was kind of wobbly at chest- head high with an increasing wind throughout the morning. The crowd was light early and there were some funky double-ups. Rode the DHD BM.
1/14/12- Session 18- Early bird float at 515am at Duranbah. It was head high plus on a dead low tide with long rollers and a powerful inside end section on the sandbar. It was a light crowd early before the contest started. Occy was out and it was very clean as well. Surfed with George.
1/13/12- Session 17- Eve sesh at D’bah on the DHD BM. It was weak, inconsistent, semi-clean, low tide, wobbly waist-chest with some closeouts. Met Trevor’s cousin George.
Session 16- Rode the TS at Lennox Head with fun chest-head high fun double up sections. It was not very crowded and I caught lots of waves. It was breaking close to the rocks with a light onshore breeze.
1/12/12/-Session 15- Surfed the Thumbprint single at D’bah on a low incoming tide. I got to the beach around 515am and the waves were waist-chest at first but got substantially better as the tide filtered in. It was shoulder high by the time I left with hard offshores and peaky a-frames with the rights producing some nice double up barrels.
1/11/12- Session 14- Thumbprint single at Duranbah on a mid-high tide. It was weak, inconsistent waist high peaks and the water felt colder yet again. It was somewhat crowded and got worse so it was a short 45 minute session.
1/10/12- Session 13- TS at D’bah in very inconsistent but clean knee-waist high. The tide was high and the water was a bit colder but the crowd was light.
1/8/12- Session 12- TS at Rainbow Bay in small, semi-choppy, inconsistent waist high weaklings. It was uncrowded and crap.
1/7/12- Session 11- D’bah around 530am on the DHD BM in super clean chest high a-frames with little crowd. The tide was high but there were some fun double ups with punch. Got one sick right tube.
1/6/12- Session 10- Before dark float at Duranbah on a full tide; DHD BM as a quad with light crowd and almost no wind; perfect shoulder high a-frames that were very fun and consistent
Session 9- D’bah mid morning on the DHD BM as a quad. There were bumpy rights with light NE wind. It was uncrowded and lots of waves were rolling through. Rabbit and Mick Fanning were out.
1/5/12- Session 8- An hour before dark at Snapper Rocks on the Thumbprint single fin. It was inconsistent waist-chest with 10mph onshores and very little crowd. Caught one mushy, super long ride to Greenmount and did 8 or 9 turns.
Session 7- Mid-morning at D’bah again but this time on the Thumbprint single fin. The crowd was not too bad and the waves were again waist-chest with a bit more wind than yesterday. It was consistent and rights were bowly with close out lefts. Rabbit and Parko were out.
1/4/12- Session 6- Mid-morning float at Duranbah on the DHD BM once again as a quad. It was waist-chest with almost no wind and a huge crowd. It was inconsistent with super clear and shallow water. It was smaller and weaker than the last few days.
1/3/12- Session 5- Arvo session at D’bah on the DHD BM as a quad; the waves were waist-chest with more wind but fun rights and some real fun end sections.
Session 4- It’s like Groundhog Day with another Duranbah session on the DHD BM quad. The waves were really fun chest- shoulder high rights with sick end sections and a light onshore wind. It was crowded but easy to get waves.
1/2/12- session 3- Afternoon session, rode the DHD BM at D’bah as a quad, it was less crowded than earlier with Bede Durbidge and Mick Fanning out, fun chest high rights with more wind than earlier.
Session 2- Rode the DHD BM (quad) at Duranbah mid-morning. Chest high long rights and wedgy lefts with clear water and a SE wind at 10 mph. Very crowded with Mick Fanning out.
1/1/12- Session 1- Afternoon session at Duranbah on the DHD BM as a quad. The wind was light SE and it was surprisingly uncrowded. There were chest-shoulder high fun bowls.
3 thoughts on “2012 Surf Log”
You’re insane my Nug! You and your surfing…
Come home Nuggets I wanna surf with you and GC is callin’ our names……The pier sandbar is outta control kid bowls like youve never seen.
bah-hahaha…We will be home in no time bruh-bruh. Get ready for it.