After the “Snap, Crackle, Pop”, swelling and pain continued to escalate. Unfortunately, the closest clinic was 1.5 hours away over a windy, pothole ridden dirt road. I thought of the drive into Pavones… things were flying around the car like we were in a zero-gravity spaceship. Thinking of doing it again with a rib injury … More Bumps in the Road

Sunlight was just starting to permeate the sky. I popped out from the jungle path and onto the shoreline. I got a view of a wave peeling mechanically down the point. I counted 8 people in the lineup and let out an involuntary cackle. It was one of the best setups and waves I’ve ever … More Snap, Crackle, Pop